| 12 V Version -
From http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_BatteryManagementSystems.html
Each battery has a regulator which consists of
- 2 - ring terminals, with hole for 5/16" bolt,
and crimp for #6 wire
- 2 - 6.8v 5watt zener diodes
- 2 - #PR2 flashlight bulb
Solder a zener diode into each ring terminal where
the wire normally goes. Solder a 6" piece of wire to the other end of
the zener diode. Solder the flashlight bulb between the free ends of
these two wires. Now you have the two zeners and flashlight bulb all
wired in series.
Lee added on 8/09 - Since there are two zeners in series, and they have a 5% tolerance, I measure their actual zener voltage, and match them up in pairs with the same total. I have a bench power supply with knobs to set the voltage limit and current limit. I set the current limit to some value like 100ma, and set the voltage limit higher than the zener voltage (like 10v for a 6.8v zener). Connect the zener, and the power supply automatically supplies a fixed 100ma. Measure the voltage across each zener. Sort them into bins (6.5v 6.6v 6.7v 6.8v 6.9v 7.0v 7.1v). Use pairs that add up to the same total
6.5v + 7.1v = 13.6v
6.6v + 7.0v = 13.6v
6.7v + 6.9v = 13.6v
6.8v + 6.8v = 13.6v
Fill the space between the zener and ring terminal
with epoxy glue. Likewise, dunk the bulb and its wires in epoxy glue.
This makes everything waterproof and acid proof, and helps conduct heat.
The zeners get their heatsinking from the large ring terminals and
battery posts they are bolted to.
Lee wrote on 9/2/09 - On mine, the diodes are potted with a thermally conductive glue inside a "heavy duty" copper ring terminal. The ring terminal is bolted to the battery to act as a heatsink for the heat produced by the zener.
Put one of these circuits across every 12v
battery. If the charging voltage exceeds about 13.6v, the zeners begin
to conduct and the lamp lights. At about 15v, the lamp is fully lit and
is bypassing about 0.5 amps.
Use a photocell to detect the light being
produced. When any of these battery regulators lights, the photocell
sees it and either switches the charger off, or to a low-current trickle
charge or float voltage setting.
6 V Version -
Comments and an ansii schematic by Lee (5/06) -
I published the version for 6v batteries a year or
so ago. Basically, I suggested the same parts (two 6.2v zener diodes),
but with *two* #PR2 lamps. Each lamp has a zener in series. This makes
two parallel paths, so it shunts twice the current -- 1 amp max instead
of 0.5 amp max. This is more appropriate for >100 amphour batteries.
One zener and one lamp in series, wired across the
6v battery. Use two such regulators across each battery. Physically,
you'd put one zener in the ring terminal on the + battery terminal, and
the other zener in the ring terminal on the - battery terminal. Like
this:

If the 6.8v zener lets the voltage get too high
(gel cells, for instance) try a 6.2v instead.
You want a zener that draws negligible current
when you aren't charging. The fully charged voltage for lead-acid is
around 2.1v/cell, which is 6.3v for a 6v battery, 8.4v for an 8v
battery, or 12.6v for a 12v battery. AGMs tend to be a little higher,
and floodeds can tolerate a little more. [The lamp] provides a roughly
constant current once the zeners start to conduct.
I used a pair because two 5w zeners are cheaper
than a 10w zener. Also, I could put one in each battery terminal, to
split the heat between them rather than concentrating it all at one
point. Also (I never do anything for one reason :-) because the
temperature coefficient of zeners around 7v is roughly zero.
The resistors act like just a backup system.
Someday the bulb may burn out or get broken. The resistor means you
don't lose *all* regulation.
Your charger has to be smart enough not to charge
excessively. The charger has to be at a low current when the regulators
begin working, and has to shut off after a relatively short time. You
can do this "open loop" by arranging the charger so it automatically
delivers low current for a short time. For example, a
transformer-rectifier charger that is adjusted to deliver <1 amp at
2.5v/cell, and has a timer to turn itself off in 1-2 hours.
Or, you can do it "closed loop", where the light
from the regulators commands the charger to cut back and turn off.
This is a parts list by Chris Zach, parts from Mouser
- 606-PR2, PR2 Chicago Miniature Incandescent
Base Flange 2.38V .5A
- 526-1N5341B, 1N5341B NTE replacement
Diodes/Rectifiers 6.2V 5W ZENER DIODE
- 610-CZ5342B, CZ5342B Central Semi Diodes -
Zener 6.8V 5.0W
- 660-MF1/2DLT52R10R0F, MF1/2DLT52R10R0F KOA
Speer 1/2Watt Metal Film Resistors 10ohms 1% 100PPM
And of course you need potting compound:
- 1 590-832-TC-450ML Epoxy Compound 1 1 0
$29.95
The smaller lugs are standard Home Depot 12-10
gauge yellow lugs; the smaller diode fits in them. For the larger one I
used heavy-duty 6ga tinned eyelets, with a 5/16" bolt hole, from Waytek Wire, part# 36472.
Here is a link to a PDF that shows the steps in making the Zener regulator |